Dealer? Dealer? E-Bay?
I just switched out my alternator in the Autozone parking lot. I
keep it classy. I pulled it out from along the firewall on the
passenger's side. I have an 86 Accord but I imagine it works on 88
and 89 as well.
I performed this operation about a year ago. I bought the Haines
repair manual and went by those directions. The driver's side axle
(left side in the USA) has to be disconnected from the transmission
to create a clear access path to drop the alternator through. There
is no other way to remove it. Note: The inner axle end only needs
moving far enough to get the alternator past. The axle is very
difficult to remove completely from the vehicle, so I left the
outer end in the hub and the inner axle end held up with wire to
prevent damage to the cv joint or rubber boot.
MARK THE POSITION OF YOUR ALTERNATOR ON THE MOUNT BEFORE YOU
REMOVE IT!!! This makes it easy to reinstall the belt to the right
It's pretty easy, put the car up on jack stands (I just drove my
front driver's side wheel up onto the curb), DISCONNECT YOUR
BATTERY, remove your 12mm bolts on the top of the alternator and
the 14mm on the bottom. Remove the green wire plugin, pop the
alternator out of its space and turn it so that you can remove the
pos wire 10mm nut with a socket and a couple extensions on it. If
you have the strange mount that uses a difficultly placed 12mm nut
to tension the belt, use a 12mm stubby box wrench from below
(reaching up past the cv axle) to loosen it. I couldn't figure out
Now from passenger's side panel, look down the firewall midway
and you'll see where the heater hoses go in. Just before that
you'll see a blend/mixer mounted of the firewall. Remove that one
10mm bolt holding it down. Now you can pull the alternator out from
underneath those hoses by carefully lifting up on them. I found it
came out easiest with the pulley side towards the motor.
Put the new alternator in the reverse. Tension the belt to the
marks you put on the mount and tighten her up. If you forgot to
mark the belt or put a new one on, the alternator belt needs 1/4
inch of travel. Meaning if you push on it from below in between the
alternator pulley and the crankshaft pulley, it should depress no
more then 1/4 of an inch.
Now thank your lucky stars for whoever discovered this trick
rather then pulling the cv axle.
i just took the top driver side motor mount off and used a floor jack and jacked the motor up far enough to slip the altinator out it wasnt easy but a lot better than pulling and axle
I just changed the alternator on my 1986 Honda Accord (carborated). I did not need to remove the axle like everyone says. Once the old one is disconnected, it can slip along the firewal on it can be pulled out on the passenger side once it is free of the speedometer cable. I did have to remove one bolt. My buddy says it was for a heat selector valve. Once that was out of the way, it slipped out and put the old one in. It really helped to have a second person though. The total repair time was about two hours. It was my first alternator change and a pleasant experience.
If its fuel injected you can remove the air cleaner housing and remove it from the top, if its carbureted you must remove the left axle. But if you are careful , you can unbolt the alternator then pry the axle forward just a little bit so you dont have to remove the axle
On an 87 Accord with manual transmission (with carb.). You can remove the alternator by removing the hoses from the heater core on the firewall,remove the bolt that fastens the heat selector valve assemby to the firewall, pull the hoses and the assmbly out of your way, remove the air filter assembly from the carb. The alternator can then be worked out along the firewall on the passenger(right) side of the car. This is much easier than removing the drive axle. I don't know if this will work with automatic trans.
On an 86 Accord with automatic transmission, we just unbolted the alternator then worked it along the firewall, over to the passenger side of the engine. In order to do this we had to remove one bolt that holds the lower hose to heater core selecter. Then pull the hoses off and it came right out. It goes in the same way and we just had to replace the hoses we romoved because we had to cut them off. Very easy job and the hoses are not expensive. Taking the drive shaft off is bull crap. Its like a whole nother project and I would not recommend attempting to remove the drive shaft unless you absolutely have to. Came out beautiful!
The same thing can be accomplished on the 87 accord auto trans without removing the transaxle but you will have to remove the brake master cylinder. The alternator can be squeezed out the top this way but the bracket can not be attached to it or it will not fit through. There are also a few minor hoses and lines that will have to be undone and moved out of the way. The car I have is the LXI hatchback with a 12 valve engine that is super wide. On this car the around the back method would not work and removing the air cleaner still did not buy enough room because the manifold and the FI were in the way. Removing the master cylinder seemed a better option to me because I did not know how, or want to mess with the axle. This is a bad option however if you don't know how to bleed brakes.
Consider if it is engine oil or transmission oil or power steering oil. Transmission oil or power steering oil would indicate a bad radiator. Engine oil could be a bad radiator also if the radiator includes an engine oil cooler ("extra cooling") but usually indicates an intake or head gasket leaking.
Your symptoms are indicating a possible head gasket problem. If you have oil in the water, you may have water in the oil. Pull out the dipstick or take off the oil fill cap and look for the unusual condition of FOAMY oil. You may also have exhaust gas in the water which can also be checked by a mechanic. Be prepared for the expense of a head gasket or possible engine replacement.
if you have oil in coolant, you have a cracked head or a cracked block your mechanic will do a compression test to determine what it is either way it is not cheap fix unless you can do it yourself
you may have a blown head gasket, or cracked head , or cracked block
It could be a number of things listed above. However I had this issue with my 3.1 V6 GM engine. I had oil in the coolant, and it turned out to be a failed Intake Manifold Gasket. It is best to take it to a repair shop and let a professional handle it unless you are mechanically inclined. If it is an Intake Manifold Gasket your looking at a ball park figure between 400 to 900 dollars. Think of it this way, would it be more beneficial to fix your current car? Or to go and put a down payment on a new one and get stuck with payments for the next 5 years?
its a BLOWN HEAD GASKET, OR A CRACKED HEAD or CRACKED BLOCK one of the three.....
It seems everyone assumes that you are talking about a gasoline engine which for the most part they would be right: radiator oil/trans-fluid internal cooler, intake leak or head gasket. If you are talking about a diesel engine, could also be oil cooler o-rings, cylinder liner o-rings, failed e.g.r. cooler, etc.
i think its funny that i have that same problem with my 3.1 v6 gm motor and my friends grandmom had the same problem lol and there is oil in my reservoir alott and if u want to know if u bad head gaskets u wont be able to see people behind u because ull be pouring white smoke out of ur exhaust, and whoever said water is heavier then oil is retarted its less dense then water yes but not heavier its hard to tell what the exact problem is so first things first id do the intake manifold gasket one because the part is cheap and to its not exactly ripping ur motor apart
yes lets tell this person to fix there exhaust manifold because that takes care of his oil & water problem. the person that feels not pulling an engine apart, how do u fix a a hungry stomach. now this person has oil in the water not an exhaut minifold problem geeezzzz some people.....
If the hazards work but the turn lamps do then it a problem with your turn signal switch itself ( the actual rod on the steering column). first try to simply clean the inside to rule out debri, if that doesn't work buy a new switch :) If both were out then I'd say it was the switch assembly for both located behind the fuse panel
It can be the solonoid or the starter itself. TAke it to a garage and have it checked out.
I have the same problem in my Explorer Sport. It could be your Anti-Theft immobilizer. Somehow my keys unprogrammed themselves, which didnt match the code in the ignition, therefore the car would not start. If a mechanic cannot fix the problem, call a locksmith.