If I understand the question, you probably need to replace the flasher. First make sure that all of the lights are working since having burned out bulbs will not supply enough load to make the flasher work.
It sounds like your plug wires are grounded to the engine block. IE.... melted somehwere along the exhaust route and grounded, noticeable when you put it in gear......
I don't think so, i have a 1993 cavalier 2.2L auto, which does the same thing, i put new plug wires on it about a month ago, and it still has the same vibration.
I would check your motor mounts. I had a 90 Sunbird and now have a 91 Cavalier, both of which had this problem. When you pull up to a stop light the whole car vibrates rather aggressively, but is calmed when the car is put into park or neutral. In both cars the motor mounts were bad causing the motor to jostle inside the engine compartment, but when you are actually driving the engine is torqued against the mounts and ceases to rattle. On the 2.2 there are 4 mounts, Right Front (by the engine coolant overflow tank), Right Rear (right above the trans axle), Left Front (looks like a dog bone on the bottom by the radiator) and the transmission mount (on top on the left by the wheel well).
Last night I replaced the right front and right rear and this solved my problem.
That is a repossession. Anytime the lender get's the car back instead of the money agreed to on the contract, it's a repossession. It will show as a voluntary repossession. And hurts the credit. Doing it does not relieve you of any deficiency between the amount the car gets sold by the bank for and the amount you owe. However, you would save many of the costs that the bank would have to expend, (fee's, towing, etc.,) that would become part of the amount you owe (hence make that possible deficiency bigger) in a "normal" repossesion. It is definately better, ABSOLUTELY ALWAYS, to co-operate, even work with the lender if you cannot make payments and would end up with an involuntary repossession. And when you do this "possession in lieu of forced repossession", you may be able to get them to agree to any number of things: Perhaps even waiving any deficiency; very possibly along with allowing you some time to sell it yourself - which is cheaper to all than having to have a broker and such involved, and can get substantially more for the car than it being sold in a bankers wholesale auction.
Yes, it is your car.
9/24/2005 Please find this shorting problem asap!!! You are going to have a car fire and loose everything! Some automotive stores have resettable fuses that have the contact footprint that matches your plug fuse block. Get one for 5 amps immediately and insert it in the fuse block in place of the 30 Amp fuse. Now you can safely proceed to look for the problem. You can take a boy scout compass and place it next to different wire harnesses in your car and see which branch gives a swing of the compass needle. This is where the current draw is flowing. Once this group of wires is found, you can find an end or carefully cut open the harness wrap and find the color coded wwire that is the offender circuit. You can now go to the connector block or harness component and open this circuit wire. You didn't identify the function name given by the silkscreen next to the 30 amp fuse on the fuse block. What you describe, sounds like an intermittent or beyond design current draw for the particular circuit function. You are going to have to keep track of the circuit function by name and see what seems to cause it to blow. An example would be the 'power window' circuit. Does it blow only when you use a particular window? If it only blows with a particular window, it may be the motor itself. This will eliminate at lot of harness wiring in the doors and chassis as it is related to specific door. Does it blow, regardless of what windom is moved? This will tend to indicate the driver's door wiring is the problem. etc. Please do yourself a favor and either fix the problem short circuit or else keep the fuse out of the fuse block until you have the time to complete the job. A good clue is to see what function of the car does not work with this fuse removed if there is no name by the fuse. 30 amps with a 12 volt battery is 360 watts which will burn up the wire harness in a very rapid manner, once it starts. The battery can out put in excess of 450 amps and once a harness fire starts, its good bye car unless you can disconnect the battery itself. Mort