Take panel off the door. Unbolt the assembly and install a new one! Order on line and get the Reg, Motor all ready for installation!
Check the fuse for the power windows. Operate the windows and see if the problem is isolated to one window. If not, the switch is most likely bad and needs more diagnosing.
Remove the door panel to the inoperative window. Start by removing the two Phillips screws in the area of the arm rest and the one screw that holds a plastic cover in front of the door handle. Remove the plastic cover over the retaining nuts for the outside side-view mirror.
Insert the common screwdriver in between the door panel and the door to pry out the trim fasteners along all three sides of the door panel. Hold the door panel away from the door enough to disconnect the electrical connectors from the window switch and the power door locks.
Remove the door panel and then remove the window switch from the panel. Plug the switch into its connector and turn the ignition key on. Move the switch in both directions and listen for the motor to work. If it does not, check the back-side of the switch with the voltmeter as it is operated to see if there is power to the terminals when activated. If there is power, the motor is bad. If there is no power, the switch is bad.
Remove the bolts holding the window to the horizontal track. Insert the common screwdriver in between the window and door to act as a wedge to hold the window up when the regulator is removed. Turn the key off and disconnect the switch.
Disconnect the electrical connector from the window motor. Remove the four nuts--two on each side of the door--holding the window track in the door. Remove the three bolts holding the window motor to the door. Remove the track with the motor from the access in the door. Install new parts in reverse order of removal.
It may or may not depending on the circumstances, like rpm at the time, load on the engine, how long it takes to stop turning, etc. Just compression test the cylinders before replacing the belt to see.
Although you have a manual shift on the transfer case the hubs lock in on vacuum. Chances are you have bad vacuum lines going to the hubs (about $150+ at a Kia dealer or $40 at your local service station). If not the lines, it will be the seals in the hubs.
Sportage has a drain plug on the bottom of the pan. which will drain most of the fluid out.
Mine did that very same thing. I unhooked the battery for 30 mins, ( to reset the 'computer', and it fired right up. Kia's are weird little nugget cars!