So your MINI Cooper's electric window doesn't work anymore and you checked the fuses and they are OK.
When you lift the switch you can hear a clicking sound from inside the door. You maybe found some info on the web about the motor being burnt out and maybe trying to pound the door just above the speaker to see if this jars the motor back to working order but nothing.
The following describes how to fix the problem.
I am telling how to do this without photos but you won't need them.
First get a new motor. Be sure to specify either driver or passenger side. They are $114 from BMW.
Depending, you may need a new regulator assembly. They are $141 from BMW. It may make sense to get the whole assembly when buying a new motor. If you find you need one you will have to go back to BMW again. It also makes things somewhat easier and you end up with a complete A-1 job. And finally, if you have BMW do this job it will cost much, much more than you are paying for these parts.
I think that when this job is done at BMW they are replacing the entire assembled regulator complete with new motor.
This job takes 1-2 hours.
First you will need the following tools:
- #20 and #30 Torx screw drivers.
- Medium Phillips head screwdriver.
- 10mm socket and ratchet wrench.
- 5mm or 3/16" Allen wrench.
- Door panel pry tool. (get at auto parts store)
- A small precision screw driver
- Stiff putty knife.
First thing is to disconnect the negative connector on the battery. This is done to deprogram the General Window Control. The GWC keeps track of the window up position. Later we will reprogram this.
Now remove the door panel by removing (4) #30 torx screws in the door. The fourth screw is under the clear reflector at the edge of the door. Pry that out with your small screw driver (if this piece separates don't worry it will be OK).
Pry the panel off with the pry tool.
Now the glass must be removed. The window is secured with two nylon clamp washers that clamp the glass to the regulator. Reaching into the door cavity, and up, you can feel for them. They are a sprocket like device that are supposed to require BMW special tool 51 3 240. BMW wouldn't sell me one but you can remove them by using your 5mm or 3/16" Allen wrench. Feel carefully and you will find the center of the sprocket where the Allen will fit into. Loosen these sprockets and remove them. Remove the glass straight up.
From the outside of the car, using your fingers, carefully remove the outer door top trim piece.
Remove the speaker and 3 Phillips head screws on the door handle.
Remove two round black seals near the top of the door, one on the left and one on the right.
Standing outside of the car and looking down into the door cavity from the top, you can see two white plastic nylon clips that secure the cable assembly to the inside of the door. Carefully remove these clips with a pry tool. If these break you will have to figure something out. If you have a new regulator assembly it doesn't matter.
Remove the third cable clip from the inside of the door.
Remove three Phillips head screws just above the speaker opening that secure the motor to the door.
Remove two 10mm bolts from under the bottom of the door.
Remove two 10mm bolts from the top of the regulator rails.
Carefully remove the regulator assembly and disconnect the electrical cable.
Lie it down flat and take note of and make a visual reference of the motor in relation to the cable mechanism. Or just take a photo.
Remove (1) #20 torx screw that attaches the motor assembly to the rail. Remove the motor assembly from the rail.
To replace the motor, just *LOOSEN* only, about 1/8 inch, four #20 torx screws that mount the motor to the cable assembly.
Pry the two parts apart enough to open a 1/8 inch space. Place your putty knife between the motor and the cable assembly to hold down and prevent the cable reel from coming apart when you separate the two pieces. (if this comes apart you might need a new regulator assembly.)
Completely remove the four screws and separate the motor from the cable assembly.
Using your visual reference if needed, assemble the new motor to the cable mechanism.
Attach the motor assembly to the rail.
Place assembly into the door cavity taking this time to reattach the electrical cable to the motor.
Using a 10mm socket hand tighten the two top rail screws.
Using a 10mm socket hand tighten the two bottom rail screws.
Connect and put the speaker back in.
Secure the motor to the door with (3) phillip head screws.
Looking down from the top and reaching into the door cavity from the side, insert the plastic cable tie clips into the inside of the door. Insert the third cable tie clip into the inside of the door.
Place the glass back into the door and hand tighten the sprocket window clamps.
Replace the top outside trim piece (compare with other door).
Attach the battery negative connector.
With the door open raise the window completely.
With the sprocket clamps hand tight, you may now adjust the window left or right and up or down as needed.
With the door slightly closed and ajar in the first click position, the window should be square and touching the rubber seal gently (use a piece of paper to feel the pressure).
To adjust this, move the bottom of the rails in or out to tilt the window as needed. Too tight and there is stress on the window. Too loose and you hear the wind when you are driving and maybe even water gets in.
Compare with the other door.
Take your time, and when you are satisfied and happy with the window adjustments, use your Allen wrench to tighten the clamps good and snug, but not too much (about 10 foot pounds).
Fully tighten the (4) 10mm bolts that secure the rails. Replace the rubber seals that cover the 10mm screws. Replace the door handle.
Put the door panel back on and replace the reflector.
To finish off, with the door closed, lower and raise the window completely, and when fully raised, hold the switch in the up position for 10 seconds. This reprograms the GWC.
When you shut the door completely with the window fully raised, the motor raises the window about a 1/4" just after the door shuts. When you open the door, it lowers it about a 1/4".
To reset your clock back to a 12 hour clock, depress both bottons on the clock simultaneously and hold for 5 seconds.
There are many different levels of hardness in drivers seats. The level of hardness depends on the car and maker.
I was also wanting to change my transmission fluid and not one soul knew what kind it needed. they all looked in 'the book' to guide them and they all found that they didn't have it and that their books said that it has to be ordered from the Mini dealer. So.. I not only ordered my 6 qts. of 'Mini Trans. Fluid' but also a transmission filter/gasket. Reason why is that you are suppose to change the transmission fluid every 30 thousand miles and I just didn't think I'd want to change my 'still good' fluid for just the filter.. so I was told my Mini in Cincinnati OH to change my filter also. I ordered it through the phone and they sent it to me right out of their barrels of fluid They also recommended that I have it pumped and not drained to get the torque converter also. It's a 3.5 hr job so be willing to wait. It's just not an easy job and a lot to remove and replace just to get to the right parts.
I'm sure you've noticed that there is NO dip stick! When a mechanic is looking 'lost or confused' about thsi as they scratch their heads.. go somewhere else!!